Air2breeze

Back
Ascension of
Cotopaxi and Chimborazo
in Ecuador with
Expediciones Andines & DAV Summit-Club from 14.08. –
30.08.2008
Introduction
and Preparation
... and I decided to go for climbing to SouthAmerica... and how did it
come??? well, actually I never was too enthusiast of visiting
SouthAmerica ... already earlier there was the thought to climb
aconcagua
maybe... but finally the mountain didnt really attract me... but
this time I had
about two weeks of holidays on my hands to spend them somewhere for
climbing. and as you have monsun in asia in many regions
and moreover
most trips - as trekkings for instance - needed more time than only two
weeks, this trip to Ecuador caught my eye - and finally I thought:::
okay, give it a try...

as for my preparation... well, I had a quite perfect one this spring
when I originally had planned to take part in an expedition to Nanga
Parbat but finally could not take part in business-reasons (of course
my heart
was still bleeding
because of that missed and unique chance to climb such an outstanding
special mountain). - this was also the reason that
these two weeks of holidays had been left over and to be spend now.
and so on thursday the 14. august I was prepared and LG brought me to
the local station where I took the train to Duesseldorf airport and
from there the airplane to Quito in Ecuador via Amsterdam. - I had
estimated a flight
duration of about 15 hours... and finally I needed about this time
indeed. not least because of the feeder flight from Duesseldorf to
Amsterdam ...but also an intermediate stop in Bonaire, isle of
the
Netherlands Antilles... and a 2nd one in Guayaquil, Ecuador... before
we finally reached Quito...

at Quito airport we were welcomed and picked up to the hotel republica
by the local agency. thitherto "we" actually had meant only "me" (and
the anonymes doing this flight with me) ...
but already at the airport I came in touch with matthias, another
member of our group. we have a good understanding right from start and
decide even to share the
double
room in the hotel. til the evening we got to know the rest of our
group... and next day in the morning we were welcomed by famous Marco
Cruz. he is a sort of living legend in ecuador and south america and a
pioneer of climbing in these regions. but he even has been many times
in europe and also has climbed in the himalaya. - as quito is
already located on a level of 2.850m of altitude, we had to take care
about our
acclimation from all the begining. so at first we stayed for a day of
sightseeing in quito, visiting the old town and the Panecillo hill with
the "Virgen del Panecillo" - dedicated to Virgin Mary...

in the afternoon we went to visit "the middle of the world"... its a
place where several attempts were done to find the exact location of
the equator in this region... with more or less success... as even the
current location - which is represented by a monument building - is
placed about
240 m southern of the correct line... however...

well, but already our next day reminded us of our actual plans... which
meant mountaineering and not sightseeing. we did a first acclimation
tour "climbing" mount rucu pichincha...

Acclimation
Tour to mount Rucu Pichincha, 4.698 m
we
has to get up early in the morning at 6:15... and went by bus to the
cablecar which brought us up to the upper terminus from where we
started our
tour at about 4.000 m. with us were of course marco... and two of his
guides... and a young french lady, carol her name, who wanted to do the
same
mountain program as we did. she was French and spent some month as a
trainee in our hotel in quito and now wanted to see some parts of the
country before returning home. - we walked quite slowly as it was an
acclimation
tour and not a competition... all running-up only had been stupid.
- the only one who was running ahead was nico - a young man who
explained
his forced pace with his already being acclimated by a preceeding
acclimation-tour in peru - where he was living and working. - during
this ascent we had splendid
weather and a good view over the city of quito. we could realize
the enormous
length of the town in contrast to the only small width... a relation of
about 30km
/ 10km... quito is the second highest capitol of south america behind
la paz in bolivia. - on this acclimation-tour I felt perfectly. I went
slowly - as I always do when preparing for greater heights... and never
will be found at the top of a group. anyway it is always good to have
some
reserves for any cases of emergency - which I have experienced already
twice with cedric coming into serious problems on cho oyu and singi
crashing down pumori over 500 meters... so I had my experiences in
rescue-operations too... and meanwhile even know very good how my body
is
reacting
in the heights... and also during the process of acclimation. - from
the heights we even had a very good panormic view over the whole
valley
and even on opposite mountains amongst them the mighty and snow-covered
cotopaxi and antisana...

coming back down from the top of rucu pichincha to the top
station of the cablecar
we met a lot
of people still coming up... asking ourselves what all these people
wanted to do there in the remaining time of maybe only about 2 hours
before the service would stop.
- when the cablecar was still quite low frequented in the morning
now it was just the opposite. a real kermess around it... and we had to
spend
some time lining up before we finally could go down...

so our first
acclimation tour finished successfully... and the next day we left
the
hotel in quito and moved to our camp where wewere going to spend our
first two
nights in tents to climb Iliniza North as a further preparation...
driving down the panamericana for some miles and thru some country
environments with the bus we came to the place where we had to leave
the bus and had to walk the rest up to the camp. - one hand as the bus
could not
go further up because of the trail... but even to acclimatize. iliniza
north is already 5.125 m high and we had to take care about a good
preparation for our main-targets which were cotopaxi and chimborazo...
I
took
this phase for very serious as I was aware that a good acclimation was
the
most essential aspect of this trip. all the rest I wanted to let come
as
it would like to come and didnt bother too much about...

when we reached the campsite all was already prepared for us... our
tents were
installed and even the team-tent and our KitchenCrew were already
waiting
for us
with a soup and later coffee with some cookies. I shared the tent with
matthias - meanwhile we built a good team with our experiences of the
hotel and were fitting each other very good. - generally mostly we had
supper at
about 7pm -
occasionally even at 6:30... - and now I was looking forward to my
first night
in the tent - which I always prefer to a hotel...

Acclimation
Tour to mount Iliniza North, 5.125m
the next morning we had to get up quite early at 3 am to climb Iliniza
North. we took a lil breakfast and did our last preparations and then
left the camp at 4 am. the two options were to wake us up at 3 am in
case of good weather - or for the case of bad weather to wake us up a
bit later - depending on
the particular conditions. - well, we maybe did not have really good -
but
still fitting weather. cloudy
but even with "moony spells" - It was btw around fullmoon. in this
terrain - with some vegetation still in this height of about 4.000m - I
didnt need my headlamp. when preparing for my expeditions in the SWF at
home I
never use a lamp... and there it is a lot darker. - we walked very
slowly.
- marco found that we still were a tiny bit to fast when
climbing Pichincha. especially our youngster nico was going up a lot
faster again than the rest of our group - as he meant he was already
acclimatized to this height. I didnt have any idea on
which height he had stayed before - and for how long... but as it was
already some
days ago since his "acclimation" I thought it to be imprudent to go
faster than necessary... even when he really was acclimatized it
had been
better to spare his power for the coming challenges in greater
heights... but okay... it was not my decision...

going up we left the vegetation zone and followed a wide ridge ... with
even first passages of snow ... the sun arose in a beautiful scene of
clouds and dust as a decoration for the moon... we took a lil rest to
drink sth and to take some photos. and then went on... - leaving the
ridge we passed by a lil cabin and had another rest before we crossed a
steeper snowy slope ...
screwing up higher and higher. - for this trip
I only wore my normal trekking boots... and even didnt wear any
gaitors... a good decision as I found... because the snow was still
quite
hard... and allover we didnt have to walk too much thru snow.
a bit
less good was the fact that the soles of my trekking boots were quite
worn
out... but okay... no problem in this terrain. - when crossing a
steeper slope maybe crampons had made it easier... but they were not
really a must...

leaving the slope we had to cross a short passage of bizarre ice
formations (cauliflower structures) and then had to go downhill for
some
meters. here our guides installed a fixrope... and even for the further
ascenst they prepared fixropes for us. it was a mixed terrain of
rocks and snow... not very difficult. - well, and if there was really a
need of
fixropes??? as for me surely not... but it was okay and a good fun
anyway... and so we went on. - meanwhile the weather had changed
to
cloudy and we had to
climb thru the mist of the clouds. the temperatures were still not too
cold and my decision not to wear too warm clothes for this trip was a
right one too. and so finally at about 11 am, on the
20.08.2008, we
reach the summit...
which is a very small snowy plateau... where we hardly could find
enough place altogether. we took some photos and took a lil rest to eat
and drink... and then we left to go back down...

a bit below the summit we met a group of young ladies who had come to
visit us the other evening. they were from munich and a talent-cadre
of the german alpine-club. they stayed in ecuador for an exchange with
their
ecuador colleagues who would come to visit them in germany later. we
exchanged some greetings... shouting and laughing thru the mist...the
young ladies were
climbing in a good mood and were very fit too. - our way downhill nwas
a
different one... down a sandy steep slope where we slided more down
than
we walked... but it was a quite direct and fast way to descent.
meanwhile
the temperatures were warming up... even rain was threatening
inbetween... - we
rested two times to drink something and to eat the rest of our
lunch-packages... and finally reached our camp just in time before some
heavy rain started coming down. - we were welcomed by our kitchen crew
with
a soup
and a coffee afterwards. - later when the sun was coming back for some
moments I took the chance to wash myself at the closeby flowing creek...

as a result it was a very nice and straining long day... we were
back in the camp at about 2:30 pm. and after washing I took a nap in
the sleeping back until supper. later we got the information that nico
was feeling very low during the ascent. he had summited quite a
while after the rest of our group ... but we thought he had surely
stopped for calling
maybe ... and so coming in delay... but never had thought of him to be
in serious problems ... as he was "very good acclimatized" in his
self-evaluation and even seemed to be quite strong...
- after supper (we had minced beef with potatoes and green beans) we
went
to lay down for the night - recovering from a long, successful,
happy day...
Climbing
Cotopaxi, 5.897m
our next target
now was cotopaxi... the scond highest mountain of ecuador and one of
the
highest active volcanos on earth. cotopaxi is located in the cotopaxi
national park in the eastern andes and in a distance of about 50 km of
quito...

first we had to do now, was to move to cotopaxi national park. we got
up
at 7 am ... had breakfast at 8... with breadroles, eggs and marmelade,
fruit juice and coffee... and already had packed our bags before. to
leave the camp immediately after breakfast. - we went back down the
trail to the place where the bus was able to come to pick us up...
again we took the famous panamericana (an old dream to ride it down on
a harley -hahaha) and stopped for lunch at the
hacienda la cienega, which is one of ecuadors most prestigous
haciendas. in colonial times it has hosted famous persons as for
instance alexander von humboldt who is a person anyway whose traces you
can find everywhere in the country and south america allover too... we
still had
some time to
spend waiting for our lunch... and went to visit the local
souvenir-shop... where I bought my postcards. the hacienda allover is
in a quite good state... but nevertheless you got a hunch, that it
maybe has seen better times in the past. - our lunch was very tasty
and for our great surprise even a life-band was playing for us...
- but as unexpected as they came... as soon they even
disappeared ... after performing some songs of their repertoire and
offering
their cd for sale...

after lunch we continued our trip to cotopaxi national park via
panamericana.
cotopaxi national park has a very beautiful landscape... and you can
find some species of wild animals there ... as the
infamous condor ...
pumas, llamas, andean foxes, wild horses and even a species of andean
bears in some parts of the park. - when we arrived at the park in the
afternoon, the crew which has arrived before us, was still building up
the camp. our cotopaxi basecamp was a very beautiful place at the foot
of cotopaxi which is a very imposing big mountain - and was right in
front
of us. - allover we had some bad luck with the weather in so far that
it was mostly cloudy with only less sunny days... and so we even didnt
get
to see cotopaxi instantly that day with our arrival... but had to wait
some time until the
clouds
allowed us a glimpse and a beautiful sight on this impressive big
colossus which we wanted to climb the next day...

the weather had changed to cloudy and rain was threatening... marco who
is a specialist of this region meant, that it was impossible to
forecast the
weather now... if it would rain or not... and so I decided to stay in
the
tent instead of going for a little hiking. we did some preparations for
the ascent of cotopaxi and even
took a rest lying in our tents in the sleepingbags. supper was
announced
for 6:30pm... and that evening carol had her supper with us...
because otherwise she would have had to sit alone... and that had not
been good of
course. carol was a nice person and meanwhile somehow part of our team.
that evening marco told us about the volcanos of ecuador. he is
very widely read. marco even was a friend of anderl heckmair... who
was member of the team of the first ascension conquering the
famous eiger
nordwand in 1938... and anderl heckmair in turn was a friend of luis
father, volkmar "burschi" stitzinger - and even was luis godfather.
marco knows luis since he was a little boy. when I wrote my postcard
for
alli I asked marco to sign it and of course he liked to do it and
congratulated them for summiting nanga parbat that year. - after supper
we went back into our tents... and after listening to some music I fell
asleep
at about 11 pm... mostly I found it quite warm in the sleepingbag and
only wore
a tshirt and short sleepingpants...

it was thursday, the 21. august - the day of our ascent of cotopaxi. we
got up at 8 am and had breakfast at 8:30. the provisions were very good
during the whole trip. we had breadroles and boiled eggs that morning
with marmelade, coffee, tea and fruit juice. -after breakfast we
did some exercises in the fix-rope... as some of us hadnt any
experiences of going in a fix-rope. marco even built the
roped-parties for the ascension...I was with matthias, herrmann and
willi... and our guide wshould be hernand, one of marcos boys. - later
it
started to rain... and we had to take a break of the exercise and when
we finally finished, we started for a little sightseeing of the
cotopaxi
national park - instead of a two hours hiking which we actually had
planned
before, but now were passing on it because of the rain...

well, coming back from our sightseeing we had lunch... and afterwards
the weather changed to sun with rain... - we decided to have
supper at 6:30 pm and to
start for our ascension at 10 pm. time to rest and to prepare for
the ascension. - that day nico gave up. he didnt want to give it a try
to climb
cotopaxi. he was in problems with his stomach and even still had light
headache. he already had finished our ascent of mt. iliniza in a bad
state... and so it was a very good and reasonable decision not to
proceed. he had symptoms of high-altitude-sickness. now he was
going
back to quito and wanted to meet us there when we even would be back
there at
the end of our journey. - but maybe nico even was not too sad because
in
quito he wanted to meet his
australian holiday-darling -hahaha...
for supper we had noodles with tuna and parmesan cheese... the perfect
energizer for such an energy-cunsuming climb...
On top of
Cotopaxi - 22. august 2008
... after
supper we were
still resting some time in our sleepingbags... as it would become a
long
night. because of the hot equator-sun its only possible to climb
cotopaxi during the night. in the later morning the sun shines so hot
that it would be too dangerous... and of course incredibly
straining too. to walk thru the soft and deep snow.
after a short cup of black tea we left the basecamp by bus... driving
up to the starting point of the climb. we could drive only quite slowly
as the street was non-asphalted one hand... and even was winding
uphills
so that the engine had to work hard... - at the starting point the
weather was cloudy with parts of blue sky and stars... it was
perceptibly colder in
this height of now 4.620 m. and even a strong wind was blowing... we
left the parking at 11:10 pm. our first target was the closeby cabin
which is the normal startpoint for climbers who come up the day before.
to stay in this cabin has certain disadvantages. its crowded of course
and quite restless because of all the people... you have to bring
up you own provisions... and even dirt is a problem in the cabin as
they say. - the way up to this cabin was stoney or sandy and still
snowfree... and after a short hour we reached the cabin. even marco
and ximena, his wife, were still going with us... but stopped later
and went back down to the bus to wait there for us to come back around
noon next day. - at the cabin we took a lil rest to put on our
harnesses as the weather was too rough to do it later at the foot of
the glacier where we had to put on our crampons and wwould leave
the rocks to go on climbing in the ice. it was indeed quite cold
meanwhile and the wind was blowing strong - with occasional stormy
squalls. -
now I also put on my light downjacket, which I wore under my
gore-jacket - a very good - and tried and tested - combination for
heights up to around 7.000 m, which I wore at pumori too. and I even
put on my stormcap.

then the next point was the bottom of the glacier... which we reached
about
half an hour later. a lot of people were going up that day. we put on
our
crampons and changed the trekking-sticks to the piolet and even were
going in the rope now. hernand was going in front and I was at the end
of
our rope. allover I felt very good, except of some pain of my back...
but I m used to pain of my back since many years. - In the begining
there were many teams parallel with us on the slope... and even some
already climbing higher in front of us... we often had to stop and
wait because of the teams in front of us in the trace...
the weather was very windy and depending on how open a slope was for
the
wind, the wind came to the limit of storm... occasionally we even had
some frozen crystals falling down of the clouds. meanwhile our guide
was
accelerating... and once even was doubling another team beside the
trace in
the deeper snow, which is quite straining of course. we had changes of
our pace and rhythm which is not good... and I even couldnt see any
good
reason why to do that - as we were very good in time to reach the
summit
- and even only still one or two teams were in front of us... and the
way up was quite direct and very steep with hardly any flat passage
inbetween where you could recover for a moment. - the whole climb was
quite
straining - the more as we had a lot of fresh snow the other night and
the snow was quite fluffy which meant, with every step you went, you
slided
back a bit and you even sank deep into the snow with your piolet...
often with your hand touching the snow... and it was of course very
straining to climb in these conditions... and then to go with such a
high speed. for our guide it was for sure less a problem as he was
perfectly acclimatized - whereas we were only adapted more or less good
to this height - but for sure not in a way you would be, when staying
in heights of 4.000 m since a longer time... and this mountain
is climbed during all seasons of the year... and marco is here with
other groups too of course whenever possible... - however - for
some of us it went to their limits as they later told each other when
exchanging our experiences... - anyway it was our mistake not to stop
our guide. we only had about two stops to drink, which of course is too
less and brings you into dehydration...

so we went on and on... and the route really is steep, steep...
steeper... very direct... and marco later told us that it hadnt been
like that in former times but that they had changed the route some
years ago... (to climb the summit more direct and straight -maybe with
the motto::: fast forward - your coffee is waiting in the basecamp - so
to speak -hahaha)... - occasionally we even thought already to be close
to the top... but then it was again only a little hill and after
getting over it... the trace went further and the next hill came in
sight... or when - after taking a steep slope - we thought now
would come a flat passage - at least for some meters... even that was a
fake -hahaha... - the trace always went on steep and very direct. - but
then... after passing a short - but a bit exposed - passage... the
last ramp camp in sight... a last jump... and at 6:17 am we reach the
top of Cotopaxi. still in the dawn ... and many clouds blocking our
view ... and so we had almost no sight and for bad luck even didnt get
sight of the crater of this famous volcano - but we couldnt help it. -
On
top a stormy wind was blowing. it was quite cold as even the sun hadnt
yet
arisen. - only few persons were standing there with us... and before -
during our ascension - only one two-party-team already came down from
the summit. - even carol was already on top. she was quite strong and
in
a good shape. moreover in a two-party team you are of course more
flexible than in a four-party one. so we took some photos and at 6:30
started to descent...

a bit below the summit we met our colleagues still coming up. sven had
to give up because of some problems with his leg... he had an accident
some weeks ago and had hurted his leg. I was walking top of the rope
now... and in the daylight now we could see the beautiful
landscape... all in snow of course... even crevasses and bizarre ice
structures created by the wind... we stopped three times to drink and
to
take some photos... and reached the cabin at about 9 am. meanwhile the
weather turned to rain again... but before we even got to know the
hot eqator sun burning down on us walking thru the snow which was
getting pliant and very wet by the sun... whereas we were sweating in
our warm clothing... but in the mountains you often have these
contrasts of very strong coldness during the nights or in bad weather
conditions... and of hot sun burning down on you the day over when the
sun is shining and the wind is becalmed... so occasionally its not so
easy to choose the fitting clothing. but its always good to be able to
change clothes... and in so far for instance even overpants are a good
option... - we still had to go down the slope from the cabin to the
parking where I arrived at 9:20 am - meeting marco who was welcoming
and congratulating
us. well, he is of course the master of this mountain and has summited
it several hundreds of times. basically I felt good except of still
some pain of my back and some headache. as for the latter I knew
it was because of the dehydration and would fade away after drinking
and
taking a rest... now we were waiting for the rest of our
group. some minutes past 10 am the bus could eventually leave...
and about 11 am we were
back in the camp where we had lunch with soup, cookies and cheese.

after lunch I went to the little hut where you had one cold-water place
- and washed myself. back at our tent I unpacked and arranged my
material and other stuff and went to lie in my sleepingbag to take a
nap for about an hour. - I had ordererd 2 liters of hot water in our
kitchen... to make some tea and drinks to get back in balance with my
bodys hydration. with drinking even my headache was reducing and after
some talking in the tent with matthias I fell asleep for 2 more hours.
- at 7pm we had supper. with bread, steak with potatoes and lentils...
and afterwards went to sleep. - the end of a splendid day and wonderful
experience of summiting Cotopaxi...

Moving to
Marcos huts - our starting point for climbing Chimborazo
next morning, saturday, we had to get up early at 6:30. - we had to
leave the camp
and had to made it to marcos huts. which were about a five hours trip
away from cotopaxi BC. - I had a good night... and we had a lot od
sheet lightnings during the night and later it had started to rain for
the rest of the night. but in the morning we had a beautiful sight on
cotopaxi, which was covered with new snow down to its foot. - after
packing all our stuff went on our trip. - driving with the bus we made
two stops and finally reached marcos huts, which are really very
beautiful and are located in a wonderful remote place in the mountains.
marco has a very outstanding collection of things of the
mountains... and which he has decorated in his huts. they really have a
very high standard... and are very comfortable. - after having lunch
with maize, soup, beans, bread, cheese, we went to our rooms to get
installed... taking a shower... and a lil rest. - it was quite fresh in
these heights... and we had to turn on the heating... a filament
heating in this case. - at 7pm we went for supper. I was sitting next
to carol and we had a good conversation about this and that and the
mountains. in english of course, because carol was French. (eeehm... as
I could experience I have forgotten all my french during the about last
8 years - and since I put my focus on english. a bit frustrative, when
I think back, that my french before was better than my english had
been...)... - after supper we sat around the open fire and had some
conversation. even ximena, marcos wife was taking part in it. and she
told some nice stories about marco... to mention when he met hary
belafonte or neil armstrong, the famous astronaut who came to visit him
in hostel. yes, marco is a famous person over there in south america.
he even met reinhold messner... and there is a foto of the both shaking
hands. - at about 11pm we went to sleep and another exciting day ended
up in sweet dreams in our beds...

next morning,
sunday, we went for a sightseeing after breakfast. we visited a local
indio market in colta ... and in rio bamba we went over the ruine place
of san fransisco which was destroyed by an earthquake already long
times ago. afterwards we went over the local market of rio bamba. there
you could by food, clothing and stuff of all kind... and also some
animals. - those who know me, know that Im a great fan of cats. and
when Im on holidays, Im looking for local cats too of course and try to
take fotos of them, whenever possible. in ecuador cats seemed to be
very rare. and when I realized that it was so difficult to find one, I
offered the members of our group that I would give 10$ to the one who
would show me a cat so that I would be able to take a foto of it. -
occasionally the or two - and even me - had seen a cat when sitting in
the bus... but it was impossible to take a foto of them. and then marco
told me he could show me a cat. and showed me caged ones on the market
of rio bamba. it broke my heart to see them sitting there. a litter of
kitten with their mummy. and one kitten had chosen me, looking at me in
such a special way, that you could feel it. it was heart breaking to
see that - and of course this was not what I wanted to shoot to open
the page on my website with the "cats of ecuador"... - back home to
marcos huts we had lunch and then hermann, who is a priest, did marco
the favour to sacrify he new built part of the central hut. - after
this ceremony marco announced that we would go for our cimborazo ascent
that night. and so went to our rooms to take a rest and to prepare our
material and things. - it meant to have dinner at 7pm... and to leave
by bus at 9pm. - I packed my rucksack and prepared the clothing which I
wanted to wear for the climbing. we could reckon on some wind and even
cold temperatures - similar as we could experience on cotopaxi before...

after supper at 7pm i took a rest until 8:30. then started my final
preaparations. and at 9:45 we overtook our bottles with the hot water.
I used my own tea... a blend of fruit tea because<I have my
experiences with
tea. on the 8.000er expeditions you have to drink lots - and tea is the
first choice. but I experienced that only after a week I couldnt "see"
any tea anymore. and then drank warm water instead. - at 10 pm we
left... taking the panamericana until the point where we had to turn to
the
right - driving up to the parking which is the starting point for the
climb in
4.850m of altitude. - it wass windy when we left the bus. i wore my
typical "summit-clothing" - its already surely 20 years old - or older
- and the modern clothing industry surely would not have any fun in me
-hahaha. - in the bus I had given my windstopper gloves to irina, who
was missing some to handle the jumar. and I didnt think that I would
miss them so very much myself. I depended on my "red ski gloves" - very
outworn too -hahaha. with very significant "scars" of abseiling on
other alpinetours...
at about 10 pm we started from the parking - and after a lil while we
reached the carrell hut. there we put our
harnesses on - and I put on
my thin down-jacket too which I wore under my
gore-jacket because of the wind which had started to blow
stronger. marco and even his wife ximena were still accompanying us
futher up. they
came with us til the foot of the glacier, where we had to put our
crampons on. marco didnt
come with us... but returned to the bus with
ximena and stayed there for the night - waiting for us to come back the
next day.
now, climbing
on the glacier, we had some stops because of other groups
in front of us. in this phase
of the ascent I got slightly cold feet and even had to put on my
stormcap because of the increasing wind. but after a
while we found our rhythm. this time
hernand, our guide again, made a good pace... not too fast. the weather
turned to worse with the time passing by. - and when marco
had told us before that ascent of chimborazo would be
less steep and direct than the ascent of cotopaxi, this was an err
-hahaha. and surely he only didnt want to discourage us...
I found the
ascent quite straining - as my colleagues found too - as they told me
afterwards. this was in reasons of that the route is indeed quite steep
and
direct one hand... and that we had a lot of new snow the other day on
the other hand.
so that meant that you always slipped with every step while
climbing up... and beyond that you even sank deep into the snow with
your piolet til
your hand with every step you made. - later I took the help of my
trekking-stick - in combination with my piolet - and then things became
easier...
underway
we had one passage where we went in a fixrope - but as I could see
later when desending and passed this passage, there was a way
beside it, where you did not need to go in a fixrope. so it had not
really been necessary to use a fixrope - however...
coming higher and higher we came more and more into clouds. and had a
spit of snow too. and coming close to the summit, they wind started
blowing very hard too. and the last part of the climb was quite a fight
against the stormy wind and coldness going along with it...
so we reached
the "point veintimillia" with 6.267m at 6:18 on 25. august 2008.

we arrived
there as one of the first groups. but the weather was so bad with no
sight at all... a stormy wind blowing and very cold temperatures, so
that there was no thought
of reaching the highest point of chimborazo that morning as we had had
to proceed for about 40 min thru a labyrinth of penitentes which you find
up there... generally you must have good luck to reach the top of
chimborazo. and many climbers cant reach it in reasons of bad weather.
but even hot sun can pretend you from reaching the top, when you reach
point ventimillia too late. - for a pity we even couldnt see the crator
of the volcano, because it was completely hidden in clouds. - our
colleagues who came up some time behind us, had better luck as the
clouds opened the sight on the crator for a while so that they even
could take photos of it.
the ascent
finally was
quite straining that day in these conditions of snow and weather. and
basically you can say: climbing chimborazo is not a technical
challenge, but it is a hard alpine daytrip... maybe to compare with
climbing mt blanc in the alps.

...
TheComingUpWithSomethingMachine is still working - so please stay
patient ...
Back